Formulation and antioxidant activity test of <i>Centella asiatica</i> herba extract and <i>Moringa oleifera</i> leaves extract as an anti-aging emulgel

Abstract

Asiaticoside in Centella asiatica L. and β-sitosterol in Moringa oleifera exhibit antioxidant properties, making them potential active ingredients in anti-aging formulations. Emulgel, a combination of emulsion and hydrogel systems, offers specialized structures that enhance the stability of delivery systems or bioactive ingredients. Proper excipients, including emulsifiers, bases, and gelling agents like Carbopol 940 and stearic acid, are crucial for maintaining emulgel stability. This study aimed to optimize Carbopol and stearic acid concentrations in an emulgel formula containing Gotu kola and Moringa leaf extracts for optimal physical quality and antioxidant activity. Three emulgel formulas (F1: 0.5% Carbopol; 4% stearic acid, F2: 1% Carbopol; 3.5% stearic acid, F3: 1.5% Carbopol; 3% stearic acid) were tested for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, centrifugation, spreadability, adhesion, hedonic response, and antioxidant activity (measured using the DPPH technique). All formulas showed changes in shape and minor oil appearance during centrifugation, indicating texture instability due to low emulsion system stability. Despite this, all formulations were homogeneous with stable pH, spreadability, and adhesion. Panelists favored F1 followed by F3, with none preferring F2 in hedonic tests. Emulgel F1 demonstrated optimal physical quality and panelist preference, while emulgel F3, with the lowest stearic acid concentration (3%), exhibited the highest antioxidant activity. Emulgel F3 holds promise for further development as an anti-aging cosmetic product, combining superior physical quality with high antioxidant efficacy.