The critical role associated with beach slope and its width in evolution of swell near the shoreline

Abstract

AbstractUsing perturbation method, the shallow water wave equation is investigated. We are, however, interested in the case in which the incident wave train propagate in the radial direction towards the shoreline. This is rather more general than the case in which the trains of progressive waves propagate strictly in x–direction. The essential part of this study is the determination of the critical role associated with the width of the shelf and the beach gradient in relation to the transformation of the beach waves. There from, it is deduced that the wave energy is an increasing function of the beach bottom gradient and the shelf width. The later should, however, be finite. Further, the nonlinear interactions between the wave trains and the resulting excitations of the seabed are also discussed

Journal of the Nigerian Association of Mathematical Physics Vol. 8 2004: pp. 139-144